Montana Wildlife Gardener

2009 Cat of the Year...

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Thu, 31 Dec 2009 13:35:00 +0000

Alex named 2009 Cat of the Year at Marler-Schmetterling Household!

Alex (pictured above, humbled by the honor, with June in the background overcome with joy, and cheering him on).

He won by a unanimous vote, trouncing Natalie,

Squeak

and June. Never one to take anything for granted, Alex was astonished by the honor of this award. When told of his victory, he humbly acted like he did not even know what we were saying. His lack of pretentiousness is refreshing. He does not expect much in life, probably because of his modest beginnings.

An innocent victim of an animal hoarder, Alex was surrendered to the Bitterroot Humane Society a few years ago, where he was promptly shaved and treated for various ailments. As a bald, adult cat who does not purr, he did not get much attention at the Humane Society. After seeing many of his peers get adopted during his year at the shelter, he withdrew and suffered from depression. He was placed in foster care where he received special attention. We fell in love with his picture on line and adopted him soon after.

Unflappable, Alex is the glue that keeps the cat family together: he likes all three of his housemates and does not buy in to the often petty politics and resentments so common in housecats. Beneath his calm demeanor, Alex enjoys classic games like "Chase" and "String." He is a little bit of a renaissance man. He can play Chase by himself, or with the other cats, even if they don't know they are playing a game.

Alex is a Turkish Angora cross, and we think he feels a little ostracized by our registered Himalayan (Squeak) and purebred Persian (June). However they were both rescued from shelters, too, so we don't understand why they have such snobby attitudes. He is not the biggest cat (Natalie is nearly twice his size), not the oldest cat (Squeak, at 16, is 8 years his senior), not the newest cat (June). He is not the fluffiest (Squeak), nor is he the fanciest (June and Squeak are tied). As a result, many of our friends forget about him. Nevertheless, he has important jobs- he greets everyone that comes into the house, he eats anything yet does not beg for table scraps (I hope June is reading this). We are glad to take this opportunity to recognize his achievements.
Alex has put together a remarkable year: he was our least expensive cat this year (Natalie's synthetic body wall surgery will keep her ahead in that department for a while), was a great sport about June joining the cat family, and carried out his aforementioned duties without a single complaint (it is almost as though he doesn't even know he has these jobs).

June did pretty well in the voting, too, but her litter box habits are not going to win her any prizes.

Visit your local humane society or donate to ours! http://www.myhswm.org/ in Missoula and http://www.bitterroothumane.org/ in the Bitterroot.

Backyard birding: a year in review

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Sun, 27 Dec 2009 13:50:00 +0000

Having wildlife in my backyard is one the greatest rewards from native plant gardening. One easily quantifiable indicator, of the "success" of our garden is the number and diversity of species of birds that use our yard and variety of uses they have for our garden.

Although it is obviously difficult to ascribe the abundance and diversity of birds using our yard to native plant landscaping (their are no controls or replicates in this study), I look back to our previous home just five blocks away- a house we rented, and did not landscape. There we were only able to attract a few species; house sparrows, pigeons, house finches and European starlings. Our current home is in the same neighborhood, same ecotype, same proximity to natural areas, etc...but we have landscaped our yard with wildlife in mind.

Compared to the past few years, we changed little in our garden in 2009, the exception from a backyard birding standpoint is that we have been feeding less and less (click here for my feelings on this). We have cut back and stopped feeding black sunflower seeds- they tended to draw in undesirable species like house finches and squirrels (read more about squirrels here), and instead the only feed we provide is suet (click here for our conventional and unconventional feeders) and hummingbird feeders seasonally.

Here are a few highlights from 2009:

40 species of birds used our yard this year. In total we have had about 60 species use the yard over the last 10 years (here is the list). Some exceptions this year were red polls (haven’t seen them in a while, and not since a "cold" (read: normal) winter, blue jays (don’t know why), and many species of warblers (though I might have missed them between building our greenhouse and training for a couple of marathons).
American robins were the first to return (Feb. 16) and the mountain chickadee (Dec. 14) was the most recent arrival.
One new species to our backyard bird list- the Brown creeper. Though not an uncommon bird, we had never had one in our yard before.
Black capped chickadees had two clutches. Though this happens every year, I still love it.
Northern flickers had a clutch. The noteworthy thing about that this year was the the male was a hybrid of two morphs and the female disappeared early on, leaving him to raise the nestlings.

Here is the list of birds in 2009:

Year-round or resident bird species
American Crow
Black-billed Magpie
Black-capped Chickadee
Cedar Waxwing
Dark-eyed Junco* (*fall-spring resident)
Downy Woodpecker
House Finch
Northern Flicker
Red-breasted Nuthatch
Sharp-shinned Hawk
2009 bird arrivals to our garden
Mountain chickadee December 12
Pine siskin October 4
White crowned sparrow October 3
Yellow rumped warbler October 3
Dark eyed junco October 3
House wren August 22
Olive-sided Flycatcher August 16
Hairy Woodpecker August 1
Northern Oriole May 28
Warbling Vireo May 27
Western Wood Pewee May 24
Yellow Warbler May 24
Wilson's Warbler May 23
Western Tanager May 21
American Goldfinch May 20
Gray Catbird May 20
Chipping sparrow May 18
Lincoln's sparrow May 16
Dusky flycatcher May 14
Black-chinned hummingbird May 12
Rufous hummingbird May 10
Ruby crowned kinglet May 2
Calliope hummingbird May 2
Golden crowned kinglet April 29
Bohemian Waxwing March 27
Varied Thrush March 26
Song Sparrow March 22
Brown Creeper March 16
Mourning Dove Feb. 21
American Robin Feb. 16

Where garden projects come to life

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Mon, 14 Dec 2009 10:30:00 +0000

With 10” or so of snow blanketing the garden, thoughts have turned toward projects for next year. Looking back on pictures of the backyard (like the one below)- it seems impossible that the garden will look like that again. I do enjoy the different seasons, and despite and smaller color palette, I like all the seasons in the garden. A lot of the reason I enjoy our garden so much outside the somewhat lush spring is because of all the structure and structural elements. There is always something to look at, and even poking up through the snow. Many of these structural elements are natural like the standing or fallen snags, the brush piles, hills, and even seed heads. All this structure is critical for wildlife and adds visual interest year round.

However, a lot of the structure in the garden are projects I have built, for function (like the raised beds, or greenhouse), to define space (like the clothesline screen, arbors and trellises), to benches and chairs to better enjoy the garden or nest boxes for birds to roost in the cold winters and raise their young in the spring.

Though typically in the background of many pictures, my shop (shown above, perhaps the last time it was clean!) is where I spend a lot of time building and planning things for the garden. The shop itself is a prominent element in our backyard, and it carries its share of the native plant and wildlife garden. Affixed to the south side is a red bat house, on the east side is the black capped chickadee house, and covering the north, west and east sides are trellises for climbing native western white clematis (Clematis ligusticifolia).
On the north side of the shop (not pictured) is an arbor that surrounds the overhead door, which a clematis has devoured. This dense thicket is where song sparrows and dark eyed juncos roost in the winters. The roof of the shop supplies water to the rain barrels that provide irrigation to vegetables in the raised beds in front of the shop. The south wall of the garden super-heats the raised bed in front of it where our tomatoes grow.

The shop also creates shade, and even some micro-climates in our native plant landscape. Because of the shade on the east side, we can plant a greater diversity of plants than would otherwise be possible, since we do not water any of our landscape. Some plants that are more water loving, like orange honey suckle (Lonicera ciliosa), side flowered miterwort (Mitella breweri), shrubby penstemon (Penstemon fruiticosa), violets (Viola canadensis), wild lily of the valley (Smilacina stellata) or fern species (I have no idea what species we have) thrive in the shade- a surrogate for water.
Susan, the Bike Gardener inspired me to post some pictures of my shop after seeing her beautiful woodworking shop, and our ensuing discussion on shop heating (you can see the heater aglow, below).This is where most of my gardening takes place this time of the year, and watching the wildlife using our garden from its windows.

winter in the wildlife garden

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Mon, 07 Dec 2009 12:40:00 +0000

It is cold and getting colder. Temps are predicted to be around -20 degrees F (not including wind) and highs are forecasted to be in the low single digits for the next few days. And, on top of that, there is the wind. It is below zero now, and it is only getting colder. This is an important time to think about wildlife in the garden.

While working in my woodworking shop yesterday (where it was very warm, by the way), I spent a lot of time watching birds and what they were up to in the garden. It was a lot of fun and gratifying to see the wildlife garden in action. I even braved the cold and -20 degree wind-chill to take some pictures (maybe “brave” is too strong of a word).

Winter roosts
The northern flicker in the photo above has been spending the night in the nest box to escape the cold. This is the same male that excavated the nest box this past spring and raised a clutch in our yard (he has a distinguishable nape crest). Although it is important to clean and fill nest boxes annually, especially ones that you fill with nesting material (see here for information), it is important to leave these boxes empty for the winter and not refill them until February.

Brush piles, bird nesting boxes, snags and rock piles are such important features for a variety of wildlife species in the garden. These elements allow birds and other animals to escape conditions that would otherwise be inhospitable and unavailable in a "clean" yard- that is a yard with only a manicured lawn and some nicely pruned specimen trees.

Feeding
We don't feed very much, even in the winter by most standards (click here for more information). Our primary feeder is our garden- the seeds, berries, insects and others results of our garden design. For example, downy woodpeckers are spending a lot of time drilling our aspens looking for borers (click here for the fascinating, never ending borer story), and flickers are emboldened by the cold to excavate our anthill in search of cold weary (and defenseless) ant. These are the most reliable and most diverse feeders we have.

Pictured above is a song sparrow sitting on one of our fallen snags eating seeds from an aster. We do feed suet in the winter (click here for directions to build an easy one), and black sunflower seeds though not the latter for some time. Just having suet available for winter birds, seems to attract the fewest pest species.

Knowing what species are likely to visit your feeders is important in determining what to set out as food. Generic “bird food” usually end s up unused or wasted, or attracted non-native or pest species (like eastern squirrel species, European starling, house sparrows or house finches). In our yard, the primary winter birds include black capped chickadees, red breasted nuthatches, northern flickers, dark eyed juncos, downy woodpeckers, and others.

One unconventional feeder that is really effective is a natural suet feeder. Though this might look a little odd to some, a deer, elk or antelope carcass is just what lots of birds love, including chickadees, nuthatches and magpies. This is what store-bought, conventional suet feeders try to imitate. After butchering game, I will usually hang a ribcage in the backyard for birds to peck at and feed on. Yesterday as I watched, the chickadees and nuthatches never went to a typical suet feeder, but rather spent all their time feeding on the deer ribcage. Consider hanging your ribcage for the birds, or if you don’t hunt, and you are interested in adding a conversation piece/ feeder to your yard, stop by a wild game butcher, I am sure they will give you a ribcage.

Greenhouse weatherization, and germination report

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 04:53:00 +0000

The greenhouse has been doing well, especially since we've had a relatively mild fall so far. It has been a lot of fun extending the gardening season- before the greenhouse we would have been long done vegetable gardening by now. Despite the relatively mild fall I have been keeping busy with winterization tasks. I built another cold frame for the other half of the ground bed (see photo below), installed the solar pool cover for insulation (but not how I expected- read below), and activated the compost furnace.

Frankly when I got the solar pool cover I didn't really have a plan to install it. I had only read about them on blogs and greenhouse gardening forums, and it seemed like if you have a greenhouse in Zone 6 or further north, you had better get one. So I did.

To make a long story short I ended up just making storm windows from the pool cover- easily removable and installable panels for the roof (see photo above). I installed the bubbles facing out (with the pool cover installed on the inside of the greenhouse). I purchased a diamond clear 12 mil pool cover, essentially really heavy duty bubble wrap. I chose the 12 mil for a good balance between light transmission and insulation (negative relationship there, unfortunately). As far as I can tell the R value of this cover is about 3 (regular bubble wrap R value is around 1/ inch of thickness). I like this storm window design so much I think I'm going to make frames and install the shade cloth this summer the same way, rather than on the outside like I did last summer- it is really nice and easy to install and looks tidy.

I finally activated the compost furnace, read: filled it with leaves. With just leaves and some water, it is already close to 120 degrees F, and providing heat radiating up into the greenhouse. Ultimately, we are going to try for a C:N ration of about 30:1 to produce more heat. Maybe though we will get closer to 15:1. The leaves we have on hand from street trees will make up the bulk of our Carbon load (along with sawdust from my woodworking shop), and I am on the lookout for some hot manure, chicken, or llama, or something.

All the plants are growing well in the greenhouse, and already we have planted a second and third round of salad greens, and radishes. Also, a new item for the greenhouse is cat grass for our burgeoning population of elderly, slightly defective, used, house cats. Although our newest cat, June (see below, and yes this is a cat, and yes that is a real picture), likes to lick cardboard, I thought I could grow her something more enjoyable to chew. Perhaps next week we will have fresh salad greens and so will our cats.

Greenhouse Winterization, part 2

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 00:28:00 +0000

The transition to the winter greenhouse garden continues....

We removed most of the cold intolerant plants, but kept a few Thai pepper plants that had some flowers and fruits on them, and they are still doing great. Frankly, I was happy to get rid of tomatoes for the year. My wife transplanted the broccoli and brussel sprouts into the ground bed that I started in flats, and she filled the rest of the ground bed with spinach, lettuce, carrots and radishes.

As far as projects to transition to the winter greenhouse, I installed two 55-gallon metal drums filled with water to act as a heat sink and thermal mass, but also to provide water for our watering needs. It was gratifying to fill these from our rain barrels, and this begins the winterizing of our rain barrels and their transition to downspouts for the winter.
Unlike the plastic olive barrels we use for rain water harvesting, the barrels we re using in the greenhouse are metal (for thermal conductance), black (for solar gain), and also act as good shelving and work surfaces. These are reused drums (clean) and are about $20 from Axmen

We’ll see how these work, only having 110 gallons of water will not provide nearly enough BTU’s to maintain the greenhouse above freezing alone, but coupled with other features, hopefully it is enough to provide benefits. Water, though a good heat sink, would need to be in a volume close to 500 gallons, based on the square feet of glazing and insulative value of my greenhouse, to have a significant effect if that was the only thing I was relying on to keep temperatures moderate. If nothing else, however, the metal drums do act as shelving and storage for water.

Other changes for the winter:
I disconnected the solar window opener on the east window, and covered the east and north window with 2” rigid insulation, the silver film will also reflect a bit more light to the greenhouse.

I installed a cold frame over 1/2 of the ground bed (see below). This is essentially a greenhouse inside the greenhouse. We'll see how it works, and I'll probably cover the other half of the ground bed- but right now it is an experiment- stay tuned for temperature data.

Left to do:

Install solar pool cover to south facing glazing
Install storm door

Activate the compost furnace

Western Montana deer resistant native plants

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:26:00 +0000

“What can I plant that the deer won’t eat?”
I am commonly asked this question, and I usually try to avoid the topic. Typically when I give talks about wildlife gardening and native plant landscaping, I structure the talks to town-dwellers with urban-ish lots who are looking to turn their little corner of the world into a wildlife heaven. I encourage gardening with nature and with wildlife, not against them.

Inevitably though I am asked how to keep deer and other animals out. Since our own house and garden is right in the middle of town, we don’t have “problems” with deer or visits from bears like many of the residents in Missoula that live adjacent to the forests and hills around town. Frankly,I get pretty annoyed by people who want to keep deer and the other wildlife out of their yards. After all, it is usually the wildlife, and the remoteness of their home that attracted them to the area. Too often though development along the wildland-urban interface leads to struggles with how to exclude wildlife, deal with wildfire and so on. Here in Missoula, the cost of solving these problems ends up being paid by all taxpayers. Living on the urban fringe and working to exclude nature is antithetical to responsible, sustainable living- it is better to live in town, close to services, and let the wildlife and their habitat be. This crap pisses me off.

But, I digress. So as a result, I have not wanted to go there with the question “what can I plant that deer won’t eat”.

Despite my reluctance to broach this topic, I understand the value of learning about deer resistant plants. As deer move further into urban areas, like in Helena or Missoula, deer are longer a problem for the wealthy or those on the urban-wildland interface. So having information for homeowners is a good idea, despite my previous philosophical objections.

After searching through a number of sources, cross referencing recommendations, and based on my observations, I have complied a list of native deer resistant plants. I was amazed by the diversity of plants and how, in general, I have already been preaching the use of these plants. Most of my favorite native landscaping plants are deer resistant. Notable exceptions include quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides), red osier dogwood (Cornus sericea) and Idaho fescue (Festuca idahoensis).

The two photos in this post occur elsewhere on my blog (I just used them in a post recently) and are not really special but they illustrate how many common native plants are deer resistant. In the photo above of our front yard, bluebunch wheat grass (Pseudoroegneria spicata), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), blanket flower (Gaillardia arristata), nodding onion (Allium cernuum), blue flax (Linum lewisii), and shaggy fleabane (Erigeron pumilis), dominate the view and these are all deer resistant. Similarly, in the photo below, the flowers in bloom are goldenrod (Solidago missouriensis), showy milkweed (Aescepias speciosa), wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), showy fleabane (Erigeron speciosis) and three-nerve fleabane (Erigeron subtrinervis), again deer resistant.

This list is by no means comprehensive- that is, there are plenty more species and genera that are deer resistant, but this is a good start and covers many of the common (in nature and in commerce) species or genera.

Greenhouse Transition to Winter

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 13:17:00 +0000

With temperatures expected to be around 6° F in the next a few days (yikes!), it is time to transition the greenhouse from summer to winter. Right now, the greenhouse is over filled with Thai peppers, eggplants, basil and tomatoes - all plants that are not too cold tolerant. Some of these plants are in the ground beds in the greenhouse, some are in pots that we had growing outside this summer.

It is still very warm in the greenhouse during the day when the air temperatures have been in the 40's. Our goal is to grow hardy cool season vegetables in the greenhouse in the winter.

When the nights began cooling, I moved our potted eggplants and peppers from outside into the greenhouse and I also dug up and potted many of the Thai peppers we had growing in our outdoor raised beds. This totally filled the greenhouse.

It has been a great summer and start to the greenhouse life, and we are looking forward to more to come. The pepper and basil harvest is so much better inside the greenhouse that next year we probably won’t grow any outside or those that we do, we will grow in pots so we can bring them in when the nights get cool. We did this this year and we got several more weeks out of our peppers.

There is lots to do for the greenhouse for the fall/ winter:
I started seeds for broccoli and brussel sprouts already (see below), these will go into the ground bed, once the tomatoes, eggplants and peppers are done. Next up (maybe tonight) I'll start spinach and lettuce that we'll grow in flats on the greenhouse shelves. Later, we'll plant radishes, carrots and the broccoli and brussel sprout starts in the ground bed. I will also make a cold frame for the in ground bed- this will add more insulation for those vegetables (about 10 degrees F, or about 1 zone). I also need to add a solar pool cover for insulation to the glazed south wall, and some metal 50 gallon drums to the north side for water and solar mass. Soon we activate our compost furnace - stay tuned for the results there.

Lots to do, the cold really snuck up on me this year.

I used to have a lawn...

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 03:22:00 +0000

Susan Morrison, of the wonderful Blue Planet Garden Blog, challenged garden bloggers to share their lawnless gardens in a post (here) , to bring attention to, among other things, her "ongoing quest to replace the Great American Lawn with garden". A noble cause. She teamed up with Susan Harris, of Garden Rant and The Sustainable Garden blogs (two of my favorite sites) and other outstanding gardeners to create Lawn Reform a new website that advocates for: Regionally Appropriate Lawn Species, Eco-Friendly Care for all Lawns, Design Ideas to Reduce or Replace Lawns.

This challenge involves a contest, with a prize I want. To enter, write a post on your blog that answers the question: "I used to have a lawn, but now I have…” So, here is my entry...

I used to have a (front) lawn, but now I have an interpretive sign explaining why I don't have a lawn (and, I guess, why you should not either).

Rolling up our lawn was the first thing we did when we moved into this house in 1999.

I used to have a (front) lawn, but now I have a short grass prairie with over 80 plant species native to the Missoula valley It is constantly changing, and interesting all year long.

I used to have a lawn, but now I have shooting stars and arrow leaf balsamroot (photo at the beginning of the post), I used to have a lawn in the backyard, too...

but now we have a vegetable garden surrounded by native plants...

with grasshoppers, and visits by over 50 species of birds.

I used to have a lawn, but now I have prairie crocus,
a greenhouse,

and a blog.

Fall in the garden

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 01:08:00 +0000

While not technically fall yet, with nights getting in to the 30's and cottonwood leaves turning golden, fall will be here soon. For a lot of reasons, fall is my favorite time of the year, and it is one of my favorite times in the garden. This is the time of the year I really like our little prairie and the look of many of our plants.

It is easy to like flowers in the garden, everyone does, but this time of the year, the grasses are cured golden brown, and the textures of the different species dominate. It is this time of the year, a lawn-alternative garden is much more interesting to me. Some plants, whose flowers are delicate and beautiful, now looking sinister and uninviting like the wavy leaf thistle (Cirsium undulatum, in photos below). In the summer their flowers draw our attention and the attention of butterflies, and in the fall and winter other insects and birds delight in their seeds.
This is a fun time to celebrate the dormancy of plants. Although there my be the temptation to water some plants, try to avoid watering and make a make a native garden something it is not, embrace the changes. This is a fun time of the year to prune, dead head and do some garden maintenance. It is a time to build brush piles for wildlife, and to leave seeds for birds to eats in the winter.
Some recent rains have given new life to some plants. The elkhorn clarkias (Clarkia pulchella) and yellow evening primroses (Oenethera flava) have returned from dormancy and begun flowering (see photo below), some blue flax (Linum lewisii), blanket flowers (Gallarida aristata), and asters (Aster and Erigerion spp.) have also started flowering again.

These small bits of color are made more extreme in contrast to the shades of brown. The browns, though, look and feel more natural this time of year, and give the garden a proper sense of place and season. Bright green irrigated lawns look that much more out of place in the west in autumn.

It is another season to enjoy the garden.

8th Street Pocket Park: Phase 2

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Sun, 06 Sep 2009 12:16:00 +0000

Phase 2 of the Pocket park is about to begin (a photo of the adjacent Phase 1 is above and click here for more info on the park). We received a neighborhood grant to work on the northeast side of the park, and this week will will start implementing the plan (see below).

Last Friday, the Missoula Parks and Recreation Department approved the landscape plan and plant species for the park. This was really good, in and of itself. In many ways, this pocket park is not a conventional park, and one of the ways is that is it falls entirely in the city right of way. Consequently, there are many regulations for what can be planted on the boulevard and related areas. In essence, this landscaping falls under a sort of street tree ordinance, and our proposed native plants do not occur in the city's preferred species list. However, after some discussion, we were granted approval to continue. It is great that the parks dept. saw the importance of a neighborhood garden and value of native plants.

In the photo below you can see the current condition of the park- not much to see and not much to do there, either (yes, that is the whole thing we will be landscaping, it is pretty small).

Below is the landscape plan for this part of the park. The main element in this next phase is a horseshoe court, as well as native plants. Starting this Wednesday night (7-8 pm) we will be preparing the site. Wednesday nights around 7 pm, will probably be a regular day and time to work on the garden, until hunting season, that is, and I guess until it gets dark. OK, so the dates and time could change, so, contact Marilyn to get on the email notification list.

Roughly here is the schedule: remove sod and weeds, install lawn edging around the perimeter of the park, install a split rail fence around the horseshoe court (and on the east boundary of the park, bring in compost and topsoil, form hills, install plants, and mulch the heck out of it. Finally, I'll add some more interpretive signs and the horse shoe pits.

This should go a lot faster than the first part of this project, so check back to see the progress.

8th Street Pocket Park

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 02:46:00 +0000

The 8th Street Pocket Park is a small neighborhood park that uses native plants and landscaping to provide education and outreach to neighbors and students that my wife and I have been working on for the last couple of years. Because of its small size and out of the way location, this little piece of ground was neglected, growing only knapweed (Centaurea stoebe) and dog waste (no Latin binomial necessary). Located between an irrigation ditch and the intersection of 8th and Grant streets, the entire "park" was located in the city's right of way. A few neighbors saw an opportunity to work together and develop a wildflower garden, providing beauty and benefits to the nearby school and surrounding neighborhood.

Our goal was to build and maintain this pocket park as a little piece of wild Montana on the corner of 8th and Grant, by using plants native to the Missoula valley and to provide education & outreach to neighbors and students and a little wildlife habitat in our neighborhood. Our hope was that this park will be enjoyed by passersby, and provide a chance to stop and learn about native plants, and wildlife. To that end we developed and installed interpretive signs (see below), paths to interact and view the landscaping and installed benches to help turn this once weed patch into a destination.

In 2008, we completed the south portion (pictured in this post)of the pocket park (with significant help from a $2,000ish neighborhood grant) and we obtained a grant to complete the park this year by expanding the project by landscaping the east portion of the park. We also hope to continue the strong partnerships and neighborhood cooperation that made the first phase so successful.

The aspect of this project I was most concerned about was that as a public park, I wanted the plants to thrive, for weeding to be minimal, and for it to be a good example of native plant landscaping. My hope was that this would give people ideas for this type of landscaping in their own yards, so as a demonstration garden, this needed to look good. To that end, site preparation was essential, and we spent a lot of time on this.

The first step involved getting rid of noxious weeds through hand-pulling and herbicide treatments. The next step involved using a sod cutter to remove the "grass" (read: dog poop, quack grass, lawn, and dandelions). We installed lawn edging around the perimeter (see photo below), then removed all the sod, waited a few weeks, dug out or pulled everything that germinated, repeated this step again, brought in screened top soil, and compost mix to form hills, planted the area and covered it all with 6" of shredded cedar bark mulch.

From the time it was planted until the end of the growing season, we watered the little park every other day heavily. Since October 2008, we have not irrigated it, and have had only one weeding night. The plants have thrived and I think this has been a great public garden example.

Below part of the park is shown, August 2008, after the area was planted.
Below is a picture of the same area in August 2009, after just one year of growth.

Below is just one of several interpretive signs...Again, the same location one year later.This is one of the only "before" pictures we have. Again, you can never take too many pictures before you begin a project- I never take enough (see my lament here). Below, volunteers are installing lawn edging and laying out the split rail cedar fence, in spring 2008. This picture was taken after we removed noxious weeds, so it actually looks like a lawn here- seeing the area as a lawn, in itself, was a lot of work and represented a lot of progress.This picture is taken roughly the same location in early spring 2009, and if you look closely you can see a black-capped chickadee on the nest box. This spring a pair excavated this box and raised a clutch- success!Below is roughly the same location in August 2009- plants thrived, despite no irrigation in 2009.
Since education and outreach were our primary goals of this project, we installed several interpretive signs in this little park. These signs provide information about the history of the park, the partnerships, as well as natural history of the area and specifically about native plants and wildlife found in the park. Below are examples of two of the six interpretive signs.
Also pictured above is a National Wildlife Federation wildlife habitat sign. This park is certified as Backyard Wildlife Habitat because it incorporates the following elements: food, water, cover, places to raise young, sustainable gardening practices, native plants.

Our neighborhood is deficient in parks and open spaces. Landscaping this site transformed existing public space from an unusable state into an attractive pocket park. While the final product of this effort meets a community need (more park space), the process of creating the native plant landscape also meets community needs.

My wife has been working with the local elementary school through the Flagship Program, an after school program for neighborhood children, and has lead field trips for dozens of children to this little garden. She has gone to classrooms to teach kids about native plants, has had them grow plants that we later transplanted to the park, and has had children help pant and weed this park for the last couple of years .

This project was also shared goal of the Montana Native Plant Society and the University of Montana's natural areas integrated plant management program (my wife's program) to provide education and outreach about native plants and their conservation. Despite the small size of this park, it has addressed multiple community needs, and it is a long way from its former state of knapweed, dog waste, and neglect.

Build a suet feeder in five minutes

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 03:30:00 +0000

If you have about five minutes to spare, here are instructions for building a suet feeder for birds this fall/winter. As part of the native plant and wildlife gardening workshop I taught at BOW a couple of weekends ago, I built these simple suet feeders with the class and people really liked them. It is a very simple feeder I have been using for 10 years or so, and it is the main feeder we use in the winter. Although I do have mixed feeling for bird feeders (click here for more information and more thoughts on bird feeders), I'm pretty comfortable using this one. The lack of perches and the placement of suet holes deter non-native birds like house sparrows, European starlings, and house finches. Those species like to perch on something while they eat, but native birds feed on suet and in the cavities and crevices of trees are "clingers" and are used to walking up and down trees.

These feeders are very easy to build (a great project for kids), and they are surprisingly effective for a variety of native birds including chickadees, nuthatches, brown creepers, many species of woodpeckers, and even juncos. I think the reason these feeders are so effective is that they mimic the trees (since they are, in fact, made of trees) that many native birds use for natural foods like insects and spider eggs. So, it is no surprise that birds have the search image of a log with treats inside.

Pictured below is everything you need to make one of these suet feeders- a log , a screw eye (I use #6), a drill bit to pre-drill the hole for the screw eye, and spade bit to drill holes for suet (1"- 1 1/4" ), and a drill.

Start with selecting a log. Any size will work (at least 8" long), the taller the better and at least 4" in diameter. It is nice to have a variety of sizes in your garden, some small ones that will only accommodate little birds like nuthatches, and some larger that will satisfy big woodpeckers.

Drill a pilot hole in one end for the screw eye.

Install the screw eye. Now you are almost done!

Then, bore out holes for the suet. Place as many as you'd like, and drill them about 1" deep. Try to keep the upper holes at least 4" from the top, so non-native birds won't be able to perch on the top and reach down into the holes.

Load the cavities with suet- it is easiest, but messiest to do this when the suet is room temperature.

Install and watch for birds- let me know how they work.

Time series and change in our back yard: garden design workship

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 12:08:00 +0000

It is always amazing how quickly things change in the garden. I routinely make the same mistake and don't take enough "before" pictures. It is always fun and educational to look back on how the garden has changed, and I thank Nan Ondra at Gardening Gone Wild for this opportunity to reflect on changes in our garden. This month's Garden Blogger Design Workshop is titled "Time in a Garden" and the idea is to examine the effect of time on your garden. If you haven't visited Gardening Gone Wild, this is a great opportunity. It is a fantastic website/ blog covering a lot of information and has really interesting posts.

The photo at the beginning of this post and the one immediately below are taken of roughly the same location, nine years apart. Both are looking to the northeast corner of our back yard, and to me really show the dramatic change in our yard. It also is a reminder of how I need to take more "before" pictures. Even this "before" picture was after we removed a dog house, cut down waist high weeds and began removing lawn and installing native plant garden beds.
Below I have a series of pictures from 2000- 2009 from two angles.

June 2001 - The first angle is looking north from our backdoor. By the pose and the proud look on our faces, I think we thought we were done landscaping, and we were eager to just sit back and enjoy the fruits of our labor. It is too bad we did not take any pictures before this- we had lived in the house for two years by 2001, and had done a bunch of work in the back yard. We installed the vegetable garden, reduced lawn, added native plant garden beds, and more. Nevertheless, there are plenty of changes in the photos that follow.

May 2004- I guess we did not sit for too long. Here you can see we added raised beds to the vegetable garden, and expanded all our native plant garden beds.

June 2004- We expanded some beds more and realigned the path. Click here for a post on how to build an urbanite path of your own.

June 2005- The changes here included replacing a lilac with a hammock stand in the back part of the yard, and expanding some beds even more. July 2008- We kept expanding the garden beds and made the lawn even smaller.
July 2009- Building the greenhouse was the biggest change, but we continued to expand the garden beds and shrink what little lawn we had left.
April 2000- This view is also of our backyard, looking to the northwest, and primarily shows our vegetable garden.

May 2004- We added raised beds and a grape arbor, started more native plant beds, and removed more lawn. July 2005- We expanded the native plant beds, and painted our house, garage and bat house.

July 2009- More native plants and a more mature landscape.

A lot has changed in our landscape over the last nine years, and it was all done incrementally, and even some areas, installed, and reinstalled over that time. I hope this inspires some of you to tackle your own projects- just remember to take some pictures before you begin!

A new chapter in the quaking aspen and longhorn beetle story

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Tue, 04 Aug 2009 03:00:00 +0000

The longhorn beetles aka aspen or poplar borers (Saperda calcarata) have hatched and lots of animals are after the larvae before they burrow deep into the quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides). This is just another chapter in the fascination ecology of quaking aspen and longhorn beetles. In order to determine how long it takes for the eggs to hatch, I labeled the places where female aspen borers laid their eggs (click here for more information), and I have been periodically checking back in on the egg masses (yes, this is the kind of thing I wonder about).

It turns out, it takes about 2.5 weeks for the larvae to hatch (which is consistent with the literature). I first noticed they hatched when I saw ants congregating around the egg mass locations, pulling the newly hatched larvae out (see photo below).All this activity on the aspen did not go unnoticed. Soon, bald-faced hornets moved in, displacing the ants, feeding on the larvae. And, if you recall, this is where the whole story began, with bald faced hornets chewing bark to mix saliva to make their nests.

It did not take long before any of the surviving larvae burrowed deeper into the cambium, protected from ants or bald-faced hornets. However, still shallow in the trunk or branches of the aspen, they are easy prey for woodpeckers. Last night a hairy woodpecker showed up. You can see in the photo at the beginning of the post and below this male hairy quickly drilled a hole into the aspen and spent the evening eating the borer larvae.

BOW Native Plant Gardening workshop information

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Sun, 02 Aug 2009 22:31:00 +0000

Thank you all that were in my class today at Montana Becoming an Outdoor Woman (BOW) summer program. I hope the native plant gardening class was useful and inspired all sorts of gardening and wildlife landscaping ideas. As promised, here are some of the books and references I talked about in the class:

The Magic of Montana Native Plants: A Gardeners Guide to Growing over 150 Species from Seed- Sheila Morrison

Bringing Nature Home- Douglas Tallamy

The Not So Big House series- Sarah Susankah
- Examples: Creating the Not So Big House, Inside the Not So Big House, and all the others

Fine Gardening Design Guides
–Example: Gardening in Small Spaces

Best of Fine Gardening Series
–Example: Garden Rooms

Shrink Your Lawn- Evelyn Hadden

Noah's Garden: Restoring the Ecology of Our Own Backyards- Sara Stein

Paradise by Design, Native Plants and the New American Landscape- Kathryn Phillips

The Forgotten Pollinators- Buchmann, Nabhan, and Mirocha

Landscaping Ideas of Jays- Judith Larner Lowry

Gardening with a Wild Heart -Judith Larner Lowry

Also, here are links to some posts on this blog that we discussed int he class

Garden planning

Building birdhouses- Birdhouse basics

How to build an urbanite path

How to remove a lawn

How to build a brush pile for wildlife

It was wonderful to see such a diverse group attending Montana BOW this year- it is a wonderful program. At breakfast and lunch I was really impressed by what a great time people were having and I really enjoyed everyone's enthusiasm for the workshops they participated in .

Even native plant gardens need maintenance

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Tue, 28 Jul 2009 04:06:00 +0000

Even native plant gardens need maintenance. All too often I see native plants advertised as "low-" or "no-maintenance". Although it is true plants native to your area will require less maintenance than conventional, generic plants (that is, those not suited for a particular climate or locale), they do require some maintenance in a garden setting. As I often remind people, it is "xeri-scape" not "zero-scape".

Inherently, periodic care, cultivation or just maintenance defines a "garden" and distinguishes it from a natural area. Perhaps instead of "maintenance free", native plant gardens should be thought of, and referred to, as "less resource intensive". This is probably a more accurate, and appropriate descriptor, since, in their native environment, native plants do not need soil amendments, fertilizers, pesticides, protetction from hot summers or cold winters, and additional water (once established), but they do require care.

I think that the lack of attention people pay to native plant gardens does a disservice to promoting native plants as landscape alternatives, especially when the aesthetic is a departure from the accepted norm. The norm being the French or English garden of a manicured lawn, and a few specimen trees. As I have mentioned in past posts (read: ranted), native plant gardens need to be thoughtful and consider the same design elements as any landscape. Having a native plant garden is not an excuse to to have an unkempt garden.

Maintenance for a native plant garden may be for a variety of reasons including: aesthetics, "tidiness", to promote undergrowth, to deadhead and prolong the bloom (though this is not very effective in our climate since we do not water), to maintain diversity of plant species and structure, or so some flowers don't set seed.

As far as letting flowers go to seed or restricting them from seeding, I do a combination. I like to leave a lot of seed heads on plants for birds, and insects but not necessarily all of them. For example, showy fleabane (Erigeron speciosus), three-vaned fleabane (Erigeron subtrinervis), and hairy golden aster (Heterotheca villosa), and others are prolific seeders, and without management they would probably end up dominating the garden. So, in certain areas of the garden I cut them back to limit their spread. However, they are easy to grow, beautiful flowers, so I many places I am not too disappointed if they take over. Others, like blue flax (Linum lewisii) and bluebunch wheatgrass (Pseudoroegneria spicata), I manage more intensively (see "What is a weed" and "Shades of blue" posts for more information).

Seeds of blanketflower (Gaillardia aristata), and many aster and erigeron species (I can't necessarily tell many of them apart), get eaten by pine siskens late in the winter. Some seeds, like balsamroot (Balsamorhiza sagittata) and narrow-leaf collomia (Collomia linnearis), get eaten almost immediately by beetles and shield bugs.
This evening I did a lot of, what I call "non-technical" pruning. I cleared out several paths (see photos above and below) that had be overgrown by flowers, and reshaped many plants to provide depth, and diversity to the landscape. To me, this is the fun part of gardening- reshaping and redefining spaces. Plus it is fun to just experiment and "putter" about the garden.

Below is an example of hairy golden aster stems, flowers and seeds I use as a mulch. I placed the seed heads and flowers of hairy golden aster cuttings over soil in a area I just planted as a base layer of mulch. This will help hold in soil moisture, retard weed establishment and seed the area with hairy golden aster. I will add a thin top coat of shredded bark mulch to complete the planting. I have tried this a few times with hairy golden aster and it works well.

After pruning, you are left with a lot of trimmings (see photo at the top of the post) and what to do with all the plant material can be an issue and daunting. Any leafy plants, I just compost, but plants with tough or nearly woody stems I just add to the brush piles in the yard we keep for wildlife. Apart from the benefits to many wildlife species, brush piles are wonderful features in the garden to contain the surprising amount of biomass even a small xeri-scaped yard can produce.

Greenwashing

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 13:03:00 +0000

I live in a green home. My home is not special, nor was it marketed as an example of “green” building. Like hundreds of houses in Missoula, it was built in the 1940's using durable materials (intended last 100+ years). Its construction contributed to the local economy and was made from locally available, sustainable materials. The wood was harvested by local workers from local forests and milled locally. It is small by today’s standards, but it is a great, useful space and occupies a small footprint, and we do not need bigger house.

I do not have an on demand water heater, fiber cement siding, photovoltaic panels, solar hot water (though I’d like to), low VOC paint, bamboo flooring (I could rant about this greenwash sometime), sustainably harvested exotic wood decking or all the other trendy “green” building products. However, when I moved into it, my entire home was 100% reused.

To me this is the best way to promote “green” building: buy a home that is already in place. It is surprisingly simple, yet in much of the green literature this view is not expressed. I think the first step in green building should be “build nothing”. But that probably won’t sell too well.
Inherently, buying, remodeling or renovating an existing home, is less impactful, less resouce intensive, and more sustainable than new construction.

I was very disappointed to read a story about green building in a magazine at the airport recently that was devoted to the topic. One article was devoted to questions and answers about how to build green. This question caught my eye, it went something like this, and I will paraphrase:

Question: Can my existing home be green or can I green it?

Answer: Maybe, but you will probably be better off building a new one and incorporating all the green features you desire.

After catching my breath and counting to three, I have to allow that, in fairness, there is some molecule of truth to this. Some things are more cost effective or practicable with new vs. existing construction. And there are a lot of limitations (read: opportunities or potential from my perspective) with my old house. For example, the walls are only 2x4 construction, location on the lot does not provide a great location for PV panels or solar hot water, when poured, my foundation was not insulated, and these things are difficult to change.

However, because of decisions we have made and our lifestyle, our home is energy efficient and “green”. Compared to other homes, we use very little water, gas and electricity and every year we strive to and do use less and less. We make improvements to the efficiency to reduce your demand, and it has been working.

As we have remodeled we have tried to be thoughtful about our choices for building materials and energy efficiency. We recently installed a metal roof after eking out all possible life from the existing roof, replaced the worst leaking windows and those on the south face of our home with efficient low e glass. We even painted our house rather than installing new siding, since our ugly siding was in perfect shape and will probably last forever (unfortunately). Throughout our remodeling projects we use reused and recycled materials whenever possible, and from local sources. We have been slowly upgrading to all energy efficient appliances, as our budget allows and as the appliances that came with the place succumb to old age. Our biggest remodel is our basement; will be mostly made from reused materials.

Obviously green building is a business, and it is a concept that is selling now. For many, building green has nothing to do with sustainable living, but is a way to justify living unsustainably. The bottom line is building and living green does not have to be expensive. We can make simple choices and thoughtful decisions, most of which require no money but often require difficult changes. I am sure many of you live in green homes, too. The biggest things you can do to green your home or life are often free.

And don’t forget your native plant garden for local wildlife.

Greenhouse in the heat: greenhouse operation update

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 02:30:00 +0000

It was 100 degrees today in Missoula, summer is here, and the greenhouse is fairing well. I installed a shade cloth a couple of days ago (see photo above), to help moderate temperatures, but mainly to reduce the intense, glaring sun, rather than for cooling. Actually, despite the high temperatures, the greenhouse is staying relatively cool. By relative I mean less than 120 degrees, and this maximum has not changed in a few months.

I was curious how the greenhouse would do in the summer, and in May we were already getting temperature in the 110's (yes, I do monitor the temperature daily, hourly in fact, with a wireless thermometer that uploads data to my computer). These temperatures are at about 7', most plants are actually cooler, growing from the floor of the greenhouse.

I designed the greenhouse for the winter, and for the low winter sun. The roof angle is pretty steep to intercept the low sun, and the west wall is not fully glazed. The north wall, and north facing roof is conventionally framed and insulated (click here for more information).

Because of the steep roof angle, and glazing only on one face, thermal gain in the greenhouse in the summer (when the sun is higher in the sky), is not as much as you'd expect and a lot less than with a lower pitched roof, or with a conventionally designed greenhouse or commercially available or kit greenhouse.

Since windows on the west and east sides are set pretty low, in the afternoon in the summer the west side provides shade. In the winter, because of the low sun angle and the sun's position further south, the sun won't even hit much of the west wall and only for a brief amount of time.

Cooling greenhouses in the summer is normally a bigger issue than getting it hot enough. As a result, I planned on venting the greenhouse with a solar louver vents on the gale ends, a solar window opener on the east end, and a thermostatically controlled exhaust fan. After the results for far, I am not sure the exhaust fan will be necessary, though I will have to look a little more at my temperature data as the summer goes on.

So far so good. I have been really happy with my design, but we'll see what happens in the winter and how well the compost furnace works. Although I am really into the design, operation and construction of the greenhouse, my wife is more interested in using it and enjoying it.

Four flicker fledglings feasting...

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 01:18:00 +0000

...on service berries, chokecherries, dogwood berries, and, of course, ants. All the fledgelings have been traveling as a group and feeding together. It is a riot to watch them. They spend a lot of time eating service berries in our yard with a robin (I think it is the same robin, but I have no idea really).

In other fledgling news, as I tweeted the other day, the chickadees fledged while I was at work. This seems to be how the year is going, between the flickers fledging, the first clutch of chickadees fledging, the bitterroots flowering and now the second clutch of chickadees all fledging when I am at work.

To outsmart the little chickadees, I recently got a mini wildlife camera and I hoped to get it running before they fledged, but I didn't. The main reason for the nest cams is to mount them inside nest boxes and I'll do that this winter- one in the flicker box and one in one of the chickadee/ nuthatch boxes. I will have a link on the blog for streaming video. More on this in the winter...

As I predicted, the second clutch fledged much quicker than the first. The second clutch only took 17 days from hatching to fledging. Normally the first clutch fledges about 20-22 days after hatching.

Quaking aspen, longhorn beetles, and the wildlife that love them

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Sat, 11 Jul 2009 15:12:00 +0000

Based on searches directing people to this blog, adult aspen borers (Saperda calcarata) are very active in people's yards and on their quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides) trees right now. The insects themselves are fascinating, beautiful and downright crazy-looking. And although I love the intrinsic value of having the borers using the trees in our yard to complete their life-cycle, the complexity of their relationship to other species is enormous. As I have mentioned, aspen are probably the most important plant species in our yard for attracting and providing the needs for diverse species of insects and birds.

The photo above is of an adult Lorquin's Admiral (Limenitis lorquini) in the picture it is feeding on the sap from the damage the larval borers cause. Likely it is also drawn to the aspen to lay eggs; Populus species are the host plant for Lorquin's Admiral caterpillars.
Adult borer activity probably peaked in our yard a week or so ago, but a few adults (see below)can still be found mating and gravid females laying eggs (like the one above). I have received some wonderful comments from people (some on some blog posts and some via email), that are finding a new appreciation for these animals.

Chickadee second clutch update

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Tue, 07 Jul 2009 13:32:00 +0000

The black-capped chickadee's second clutch hatched on July 5, so in 2-3 weeks the young will fledge.

Although having two clutches is common behavior for black-capped chickadees in our yard (they have two clutches almost every year), in general, it is not common for black-capped chickadees. This behavior has been reported for related parids, including Mexican chickadees, and tufted titmice.

Usually, the second clutch is smaller, and fledges sooner, than the first clutch, usually closer to 14-16 days, rather than the 20- 23 days it typically takes the first clutch to fledge. Interestingly, this year, the adults re-excavated the box and removed the nesting material from the first nest- they usually just build right on top of it.

Having a second clutch with fewer chickadees makes sense, since fecundity or clutch size

is related to fitness. After the adults raise their first clutch, they are pretty worn out. That is why it is a bit unusual for black-capped chickadees to have another clutch. The reason for the second clutch might speak to the relatively easy living conditions the chickadees find in town or the result of a behavior that is learned.

Often adults will have a second clutch if there are few fledglings from the first clutch or catastrophe of some sort happens, but this is not he cases with these- there are six fledgelings from the first clutch (this is a lot- normally there are 4-5).

Soon the young from the first clutch will help collect food for the nestlings from the second clutch. This behavior may be reason the adults can have two clutches- that they are getting assistance in raising the second clutch. Though right now the adults are doing all the food gathering, and the young are following them around, picking and pecking at random things mimicking the activities of the adults.

Though a little more esoteric, the large clutch size from the first clutch, which is typically in our yard, is the result of chickadees that excavated a nest, rather than reused a cavity or nest in an already existent cavity (as a secondary cavity nester would). Unlike other parids (including the mountain chickadee that also occurs here), black-capped chickadees, will, and in many cases, prefer to excavate their own cavities for nesting.

There has been a hypothesis that clutch size was related to whether a bird excavates their own cavity and black-capped chickadees are the perfect subject for study since they may do either. The thought is that there is a caloric expense to excavation, therefore, the clutch size would be smaller for a primary excavator or a pair that excavates their own cavity, and larger for a primary excavator that uses an existing cavity. Obviously, you can't infer much from a sample size of one (the pair annually nesting in our yard), but it is pretty interesting, nevertheless.

Greenhouse update

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Sun, 05 Jul 2009 13:10:00 +0000

It's been a little over a month since I built this greenhouse and my wife is really enjoying it. Here are some pictures showing the changes and growth over the last month. The garden has really filled in around the greenhouse, and if you didn't know better, you'd think it was here for a lot longer. It is really neat to look back on the progress.

Not surprisingly, the tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and basil have grown a lot.

Probably the biggest difference we have seen between our vegetables grown outside the greenhouse and inside has been the basil and eggplants. We have already harvested a lot of Thai basil, and the plants have already grown new leaves and are ready to be harvested again.

Lots of varieties of Thai peppers are doing great in the heat (see above).

The interior shelves and organization has changed a lot since I built the greenhouse, and this is by design. It is really nice having adjustable and removable shelving to accommodate a variety of tasks and also to accommodate plants as they grow. The tomato and eggplant cage above has replaced a shelf, but in the winter, the shelf will go back and the tomato cage will be replaced by a cold frame.

Garden tool closet

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Sun, 05 Jul 2009 12:37:00 +0000

Here are some pictures of the newest addition to our garden- a garden tool closet. It is smaller than a shed (about 2 x 3 1/2 feet), and occupies a tiny footprint, but has room to store a lot of garden tools.

I like the name "closet" because it speaks to its diminutive stature, and when I told people I was building a shed for the backyard, the response was the same "where are you going to fit it?". There is plenty of space in any yard to put such a small structure.

As you can tell, it bears a resemblance to its big sibling- the style and colors were inspired by the greenhouse (below you can see the closet looming over its kin's shoulder). The closet also acts as a focal point, drawing you into the back yard, especially if you need a shovel.

I used some materials left over from building the greenhouse, but mainly I just wanted another project to build. Excepts for one quart of paint, all the materials were re-used and just and all were from Home Resource. Including the can of paint, it cost $135, although this is a fraction of what the materials would have cost new, to me the real benefit is using materials for this project that are recycled- in some cases many times.

For example, I built the greenhouse roof using metal roofing I got at Home Resource. When I bought the roofing it was used before I got it. After completing the greenhouse, I took my leftover roofing to Home Resource, and then when I started building the tool closet, I went back and purchased it again (I have a few scraps left and I'll bring it back there for hopefully the last time- for me)! Josh, the manager, laughed that there was probably no carbon left in that tin roof.

and the story continues...

noreply@blogger.com (David) — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 12:58:00 +0000

I could hear their chewing from across the yard. Granted, we have a small yard, but they are small animals, too. The chewing I heard was the female aspen or poplar borer beetle (Saperda calcarata) enlarging a hole in the bark of one of our quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides) to lay eggs of a new generation of long horn beetles. Over the last couple of weeks, the adult borer beetles have been mating in our yard, and the females have been laying eggs. One of our aspen, one we planted about nine-years ago is finally starting to succumb to the damage the borers are causing, and I am totally fine with this. Aspen are some of the most interesting and important trees in our yard, not because of the trees themselves but rather for the complex role they play in wildlife in our garden (read here).

Back to the dying aspen, ... I am actually looking forward to this aspen trunk dying (it is one of the largest trees in our yard) and becoming a standing snag (read here for more info). The diameter of this aspen is such that a black-capped chickadee or red-breasted nuthtacth could excavate a nest in its trunk, and there is already some progress to that end. As a result of the aspen borer life cycle, downy woodpeckers excavate the larvae in the late winter/ early spring when the larvae are close to the surface. The holes that the small woodpeckers create later become the beginnings of a cavity that chickadees and nuthatches will enlarge and excavate.

Even though this trunk is dying, this one has suckered and spread (a response to stress) and before long, a new aspen (or several will take its place). So by letting the borers do the work, we get several new aspen, a new snag, a lot of entertainment and wildlife habitat.